While you'll need to sand with a corner sanding block, sanding alone would take forever and will still leave you with residual bumps. In the corners it's pretty difficult to get them perfectly smooth with the trowel, and you're inevitably faced with bumps and irregularities where joint compound has accumulated. We've already shared the large electric drywall sander we use, as well as our best approach for keeping dust to a very minimum while working, but once we reach the point where the corners and areas where the sander can't effectively reach need attention, what do we do? Let's take a look at each scenario, along with our solutions. Trust us, we know! We had this little issue with our own inexperience in our upstairs hallway, and I stare at it. Rushing this phase of the project can only result in inferior results that are magnified by your first coat of paint, yet completely avoidable with just a little effort. We have to muster the patience, expertise, and desire to remove any and all imperfections before going onto the next several coats of finish. Just follow my easy steps :wink: :smile: :tooth sparkle bell ding: :thumbs up:Īfter allowing the material to cure from our last step involving the thin and truly skimmed layer of joint compound, we've got a rather tall task ahead of us before we're able to continue applying finish coats. And while many have embraced the notion of "complete but not perfect" when DIYing, taking a lax approach at this stage of the game will so dramatically impact the finished product that you could barely even label it complete. With skim coating, as with many old house projects, the Devil is in the details. In reality we are rapidly approaching one of those fateful DIY forks in the road where our efforts can culminate in either a beautifully finished result or a steaming pile of crap, all depending on our next critical steps.Īt this all too important point of skim coat plaster repair there are still bumps, ridges, imperfections, and areas to be filled, but overall we've reached a milestone where our hopes begin to outweigh our doubts and we see the crisp and smooth plaster light at the end of the mud slinging and sanding tunnel. Don't be deceived by the false notions of a completed project. In our long and enduring plaster journey-from cracked and failing to flat and smooth-that is represented in all of our many skim coating adventures, we reach a critical juncture where the walls begin to assume a "finished" look. I know keeping your feet on the ground and rear end firmly planted in the chair is difficult when dealing with such a tremendously gripping subject matter. Woah, watch out, I hope that fall you just took out of your chair after I told you our post topic for the day didn't hurt too terribly. Does this sound plausible?įast forward a month or so since Easifilling and I got round to repainting this fixed wall only to face the same issue again but in a different spot (that was previously painted ok).Are you ready!? We've got another absolutely thrilling post surrounding the tremendously suspenseful endeavor of plaster repair and a major skim coat undertaking. So I am a bit concerned that the corner where the pipes punch out through the external wall for future extension could be sagging and causing this problem. The same plasterer filled in the chase by putting some wire in and filling it with Thistle Hardwall or perhaps just plaster. I had this wall chased out from corner to corner and put the hot&cold and waste pipes for the future extension, so quite a deep chase for my non-builder mind. When doing so he noticed some cracks under the skim coat and suggested that there was some movemet in the wall which caused the cracks and skim to get unstuck (hence the hollow sound when tapped snd peeling off). The plasterer came back and cut around the peeled off sections and filled with Easifill. You could hear a hollow sound when tapped the area around the peeled off skim. Everything was going well except for one party wall where the skim started peeling off when rolling the paint on. I did the mist coat of 9:1 paint and water (as pwr instructions on the paint bucket) and then undiluted paint for the top coat. As advised by the plasterer, I have used Leyland Leytex breathable paint as we wanted to the walls to be white anyway. We had a living room walls and ceiling skimmed and I repainted it after it dried (after a good few weeks due to lack of time).
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